I often wonder how people who don’t surf
perceive surfing. What are their
thoughts on the people out in the cold water, suited up and dropping into wave
after wave? Do they get excited when
they see someone rip? Surfing is a sport but also a feeling. There is a lifestyle component to it,
however, for me at least, it is more related to the emotional side of being in
the water then anything else. When you
are out there sitting on your board waiting for the next chance to ride you
have a lot of time to think. The wheels
in my head turn at a fever pitch and my thoughts run from God to cleaning my
house. Though with every session I am
simply grateful for having the opportunity to participate in something so impressive
and commanding, to be at peace with the world and myself.
The physical
side of surfing is the most challenging.
I was in a boot with a torn ligament for 12 weeks. Those three months I watched people surf as I
sat in the bar drinking a beer and getting weak. My shoulders and arms lost their power to get
past the breaks. My belly got soft from the fine selection of craft beers San
Diego has to offer. Paddling out is now
major work for me. On Saturday Paul, two
of his friends and I were out at Tourmaline at 6:00 am. That was after Friday night first visiting my
friends new restaurant and having a couple glasses of wine then watching a Led
Zeppelin tribute band and rocking until midnight (beers included). The day
proved to be exceptional, come 6:30 both Paul and I were commenting on how hot
it was in our wetsuits and how awesome that the water temp is getting warmer. Though I was struggling. Partly because of
the night before but also because I had to come to terms with my body not being
as strong as it should be. My thinking
time was spent being mad at myself how I couldn’t keep up with all the other
surfers. When I paddled in I was
disappointed with myself and vowed to get into better shape and to get out in
the waves until I was back. It definitely was drilled in when I stopped of to
watch my friend Eli surf in Mission Beach.
He was ripping it and I was stoked to watch him even if it reminding me
how much work I have ahead of me to even think about surfing with him.
Today Paul
and I drove up to Camp Pendleton. The
waves were non-existent. It was low
tide, so the potential for rock damage to our boards and fins was pretty
high. We decided to drive down to
Oceanside. We cruised a couple of spots
and ended up at the north side pier.
Paddling out I told myself today I was going to catch some waves and
make my body work for the gift of waves.
Wave 1,2,3,4,5,6……13, booyah, I kept catching one after another. Granted I wasn’t shredding but I was feeling
good. Green Pin in the map # 3 was
definitely a good day.
The details:
Saturday, March
8, 2014
Name of Spot: Tourmaline
Date / Time: March 8, 2014: 6:00 am
City: Pacific Beach
Board: Kimberli – “Betsie” – 10’,
Paul - “Mitchell” 9’
|
Wave quality
|
Frequency
|
Break Type
|
Bottom
|
|
Decent, some glass but on average
fair
|
4 to 6 min
|
Reef – Rocky - Beach
|
Sandy w/rocks
|
|
Wave Direction
|
Power
|
Tide
|
Swell
|
|
Left and Right
|
Average, decent strength but not
overpowering
|
Low
|
2 – 4
|
|
Wind
|
Crowd Size
|
Crowd Type
|
Dangers
|
|
Very light
|
Medium
|
Fun, Friendly
|
Rocks
|
Sunday,
March, 9, 2014
Name of Spot: Oceanside Pier, North Side
Date / Time: March 9, 2014: 10:00
am
City: Oceanside
Board: Kimberli – “Betsie” – 10’,
Paul - “Holden” 10’
|
Wave quality
|
Frequency
|
Break Type
|
Bottom
|
|
Choppy but working
|
3 to 5 min
|
Sandy - Beach
|
Sandy
|
|
Wave Direction
|
Power
|
Tide
|
Swell
|
|
Left and Right, mostly left
|
Excellent
|
Med
|
2 – 4, occasional 5’
|
|
Wind
|
Crowd Size
|
Crowd Type
|
Dangers
|
|
6 knots, blustery
|
Low
|
Decent, friendly
|
Rip tide at pier
|
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